Thursday, 30 September 2010
La Bicicleta Verde
For my first day in Santiago, after a long sleep recovering from severe jet lag and general exhaustion, Carmen booked me onto a bicyle tour with the aptly names La Bicicleta Verde. The title of the tour that i did was Parks and Politics and was a great introduction to the politcal history of Chile. I arrived expecting there to be a group of other cycle loving tourists but it turned out i would be peddling solo with my own personal tour guide! I felt quite lucky to have my very own private tour and made the most of it by asking lots of questions. We cycled around, stopping off at important sites including La Moneda (seat of the President), The National Library, Santa Lucia hill and Barrio Paris-London to name but a few. One thing that i found particulary interesting was a small library called Cafe Literario set within both Parque Bustamante and Forestal. These had been originally set up to improve the publics access to reading materials which due to high taxes were very expensive to buy. Nowadays they function as a great spot to come and read and have coffee in a nice park setting. We finshed the tour by having a nice coffee at a little spot close to La Mondeda and chatted more about Chilean life and culture.
Wednesday, 29 September 2010
Monday, 27 September 2010
Co-op-ing
As much as we all love the very affordable `no frills´domestic airlines, problems begin to arise when the airline decides to cancel your flight for no apparent reason. This combined with the schools holidays made for a long wait at Melbourne airport. However, a few hours of wondering aimlessly around duty-free with no intention of buying anything and a short flight later i arrived in Sydney and caught a train to Newtown where i would be staying. I stayed with a group of students at STUCCO, the only student co-operative in Australia. It was set up by a group of students and opened in 1991, set in an old glass-making factory with an open courtyard in the middle surrounded by the units (individual flats of between 4-5 people). There are currently a total of 38 students living there at the moment. I was staying in the spare room in flat 6 with Amy, Owen, Lou and Mark. My arrival coincided with the Sydney Fringe Festival and so after dumping my bags and quickly changed I went with Amy and Lou to an event that their friend Jess had arranged. The mystery bus tour was a series of nights where you meet at a certain place and get taken to a secret even, so its sort of luck a lucky dip because you don´t know where you will end up. This night the bus took us to a quirky/warehouse-esque bar/club where a band were playing. It was sort of Eastern European hippy gyspy music, but rather entertaining and fun for random dancing! The next night was spent enjoying a gig in the courtyard of Stucco, by the Barons of Tang (http://www.myspace.com/thebaronsoftang) who describe themselves as Gypsy Deathcore. This led to more jigging around dancing and flayling of arms. The night continued at The Hatch, another warehouse residence where much time was spent getting down to some grimey dubstep and other melodic tunes. Evidently, much of the next day was spent sleeping! My last night in the company of the Stucco kids was spent staying in, chilling out and making pies. Amy made a hearty vegetable pie (which you can see her attacking) and i made my signature pumpkin pie, delish. Unfortunately our final attempt of watching Harry Potter without falling asleep ( Amy and i had been trying for some days now) failed in favour of much needed sleep.
Saturday, 25 September 2010
Veg Out - St Kilda
I had a great sunny day wandering around St Kilda, to the East of Melbourne and got most excited by the cute little botanical garden, eco centre and also amazing community garden alive with colour, creativity and blooming produce.
Friday, 24 September 2010
i heart Mark and Anna
Moving from one melby friend to the next, i went to stay with Margalit and her family in Caulfield. It was fun to get the know the lovely Levin family who i had heard so much about. We shared a fun filled family dinner to celebrate Margie´s graduation (my favourite part of this being the adventure that Anna (mummy Levin) and I had in collecting take-out from various places. Margie showed me around her hood and gave me lots of fun places to explore while she had to go to class. Hoola hooping, drinking tea and watching Daniel Craig Bond were also greatly enjoyed whilst residing in the in Levin homestead, IDEAL.
Life at the farm
Time at the farm was spent enjoying the beautiful countryside and landscapes, best explored in my opinion on horseback, so i saddled up and took to the hills!
One day we prepared a huge batch of sandwiches and picnic foods and headed down to the riverside for some exciting kayaking on the river. We took it in turns while others played on the rivers banks and learnt how to ride the dirt bikes. It was like being on a school adventure holiday except there were no teachers, we could all do whatever we wanted (with some limits off course!) and a lot more booze!
Saturday night, despite the slightly sodden fire pit (there had been massive storms and flooding the previous week) we got the bonfire going and had a great BBQ feast complete with some Pimms that i had bought along. Various attempts were made at making smores, moslty resulting in some burnt biscuits but the large supplies of marshmellows and chocolate made up for this!
The night continued with various games and festivities including a mass nudey run and multiple rounds (and overshares) of 2 truths and a lie/2 lies and a truth or if you were feeling really open 3 truths!!
Wednesday, 15 September 2010
skiing in australia, as you do
Another positive to staying with international friends is when they have 4000 acre farms close by to mountain ranges. A group of 16 of us road tripped up to Rich's farm in Khancoban, about a 5 hour journey from Melbourne set by the Kosciuszko National Park. It was a great weekend of multiple outdoor activities mountain-biking, dirtbike riding, horseriding, river kayaking to names a few. We also took a day trip up to Thredbo in the Snowy Mountains to go skiing for the day. The weather was perfect as
we
got some fresh snow on the way up making it a great drive through a winter wonderland! We made a quick stop off along the way for me to go and play with the
kangaroos that were just hanging out along the roadside, aww. Having not skied for something like 8 years i had slight fear that i had forgotten how exactly to maneuver the two long planks attached to my feet but luckily after a few initial slippery turns i regained some former knowledge of what to do and managed to go the whole day without falling over, wahey!
A beach bums paradise
I spent a few days up at Byron Bay where i frequented the beach to run, do some yoga and swim in the sea whilst also soaking up some sun that i was luckily blessed with. A lazy surfing beach town and a perfect place to chill out. I spent one day visiting the surrounding bays and beaches whilst also doing the well known and popular walk up to the lighthouse, where you geta great view across the bays and watch the surfers. As soon as the sungoes down people gather around the rocks on the beach and play music and have a bit of a jam session as the sun sets.
we heart cycling
The river-side cycle path that leads from Rich's place into the city, a pretty nice ride to do into work if you were working there. The river tracks also get packed at lunchtime and after hours when the fit people of Melbourne are out and about jogging keeping themselves buff and beautiful! There are also often people especially schools and uni students rowing in the river. It was great to be able to borrow a bike from the Gannon household and explore the city, trying my hardest not to get stuck in any tram lines. One day we met up for lunch and cycled over to Abbotsford Convent where we went for a delicious meal at a not-for-profit veggie restaurant aptly named Lentil As Anything, where you fill up a plate from the buffet and then pay a donation. An array of aubergine curry, dahl, veggie stew, potato fritters, salads, rice and more was on offer. After satisfying our taste-buds we took to our bikes and cycled along the Yarra River and then up a popular cycling track to get a good view across the city. While cycling Rich explained that the strange toast slash muesli slash yeasty smell i was experiencing was coming from the Carlton brewery which was close by.
"i'm here with all of my people, yeah yeah yeah"
Having heard so much about Melbourne I was so excited to arrive and see it all for myself. I stayed with Dickie and his two housemates Steph and Louisa in Richmond, a short cycle ride - along the river - away from the city. What amazes me about Melbourne is the abundance of cool shops, cafes, bars and restaurants spread across different suburbs. I was spoilt by a plethora of cafe culture spots, vintage boutiques and quirky bars spilling out amongst graffiti clad streets. It was nice to be shown around by locals and get a really honest Melbourne experience...how nice to finally be free from the constraints of a lonely planet guide and following ones nose. I also conveniently arrived in time for Melbourne fashion week and a group of us went to see one of the student shows where one of Rich's friends was showing his finalpieces. We then spent the rest of the evening bar hopping around. We actually bar hopped around on quite a few evenings, a great way to see what the nightlife had to offer and experience many favourite haunts of the trendy Melbournites.
Goodbye New Zealand!
In Christchurch i stayed with 4 guys (Sam, Alex, Logan and James) + Doug the cat, who were studying at the university in the city. It was rather entertaining to be back i a student house and it reminded me of good old Bristol times. Christchurch was a nice small city to wander around in with really great little shops and cute cafes (its all about the cafe culture don't you know!) I also paid a visit to the Christchurch Art Gallery which had some nice exhibitions in place. I also explored the Arts Centre which is set in the colleges of the old Canterbury University. It has been turned into a creative hub with loads of studios and galleries for painters, sculptors, weavers and other crafty techniques. The botanical gardens also provided a nice environment for an afternoon stroll in the sunshine. My last night was spent celebrating Logan's birthday which was great fun as Alex made an epic chocolate cake complete with chocolatey decorations, amazing. I was also treated to homemade spirits which the boys make themselves, lots of different flavoured vodkas, gins, rums etc. These so called 'surprise shots' made for a slightly dodge journey in the early hours of the morning to return the rental car before my 6am flight to Melbourne. Luckily though, i just made it and had a very much needed sleep on the plan across the water to Asutralia.Hooray!
Tuesday, 14 September 2010
Caffeine break
My last bit of cafe culture 'research' was spent at C1 Espresso on at one end of High Street. A really cool cafe complete with lots of papers and art/fashion mags to browse through as well as cool decor and exposed brick walls. There was even an old singer sewing machine which dispensed tap water! I decided to break my usual routine of just a coffee and splash out on an amazingly yummy savoury muffin to accompany my trim flat white.
* ' ~ ~ dedicated to Rose :) ~~ ' *
Christchurch street view
The streets surrounding cathedral square - the central landmard of thecity - had some great little shops and cafes and the architecture was really cool with lots of old warehouse-type structures and quirky alleyways. One facade on a particular little laneway was clad with a stack of bicycles which looked really cool and there was also a mini car imposed on theopposite building above another bar.
Akaroa
Quaint little Oamaru
En route to our final destination of Christchurch we stopped off at the little town of Oamaru, famous for its old style shops and colony of little blue penguins. We visited lots of the old shops including the still running local radio station with its amazing collection of vintage radios and also the local bookstore.
Duniden Farmers Market
Being in a city on a Saturday is always great because it means you can check out the local farmers market. The one at Duniden had a great range of fresh produce, meat, fish, deli stuff, baked goods, cheeses, honey etc etc and also had an amazing food demonstration stall where we secured "front row seats" and were able to taste all the yummy meals on offer. This included a spanish cook in the frying pan breakfast, a tasty asian tofu salad and a yummy apple and dried fruit crumble. The idea behind the menus comes from what other stalls donate for that week so it is all based on seasonal produce. This means that each week the chef comes up with new menus to suit which products are available, genius. We took away the recipe sheets, hoping to be able to make some of the dishes along the way on our travels.
Morning hike in Queenstown
Changing our plans in Queenstown meant that we only spent one night there and so decided to get up early before leaving to hike up the Queenstown Hill track to get a great view across the mountains and lake. It was a pretty steep climb up to the summit, but was totally worth it for the stunning views across the surrounding valleys and mountain ranges. The air was crisp and fresh and the walk meant that we got to stretch our legs before getting back in the car to continue on our mission heading further south across the south island.
Franz Josef Glacier
Glacier....dedicated to Pete and his love for large ice masses! I had planned to do the glacial 'walking on the ice' that everyone does here, but the weather on the morning was pretty bad and cold and so decided to move on and travel while the weather was miserable. It wouldn't have been much fun hiking up the glacier in the freezing rain, oh well...next time!
Thursday, 9 September 2010
Day in paradise
The view from stop off between Nelson and the glaciers, just before the Pancake Rocks (Punakaiki). I stayed with Mike, who bored with city life, had moved away from Christchurch to feature in his own 'into the wild' experience. His beach shack style house was perched right on the cliffs and had amazing views and little walkway down to the beach. I was lucky to have a day of amazing sun and made the most of chilling out with my book and having a good break from driving. We were also blessed with 2 awesome sunsets and after a yummy dinner of roasted veggies, chocolate and wine went down to the caves for some explorations. We also made friends with the garden possum which was very friendly and Mike also taught me about the different birds in the area including the characteristic Tui bird.
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